The project shows how a space heater can be built with runs on electricity and uses water to create HHO gas for a heat source. The obvious advantage is eliminating the need for natural gas, propane, kerosene, or any other heating oil.
What are these DVDs about?
The DVDs show the steps to build a space heater. It uses water and electricity and heat up a 1,000 sq. ft. space.
Why is this DVD priced this way?
The value of the DVD cannot be underestimated.
It contains 95 step by step videos of exactly how to build the unit and this investment of time and development is priceless.
More importantly, purchasing the DVD provides support for the project to continue development of larger systems and other applications.
What's the advantage to this heater design?
There are two benefits to the HHO heating concept.
First is it uses less electricity than a conventional electric heater. Often the unit works on 300 watts or less to provide good heat.
Second, if you compare this to the cost of using natural gas, or buying propane or kerosene, the use of water as fuel is much cheaper.
How do I get the parts? Are you selling them on your site?
As the project moves forward we are helping to locate good sources for the components and we will offer some of them directly to members.
Below is a parts list with some average prices you can review. When you purchase the DVD, this list is also made available.
How much does it cost to build an HHOHeater?
The parts to build this project can range from $500 to $1,000.
This can depend on many factors and also what you may already have available for the project.
The energy savings can cover this expense in less than a year depending upon your actual use and need. Can I buy a fully assembled HHOHeater?
Soon we hope to have a 'parts package' as well as a fully assembled unit for sale to the members.
We are also looking for members who want to manufacture these systems and help expand the market for this technology.
How much does this cost to operate?
If you calculate a 300 watt usage for an eight hour day (or night) that totals 2,400 watts daily and 72,000 watts monthly.
Change that to kWh (kilo watt hours) and you get 72 kWh.
A general estimate of cost is 15 cents per kWh, so the math shows 36 cents per day, or eleven dollars per month plus the water.
The heater is built with a 2 quart water tank and uses less than one quart of distilled water per day.
Wattage x hours used ÷ 1000 x price per kWh= cost of electricity
For example, let's say you leave a 100-watt bulb running continuously (730 hours a month), and you're paying 15¢/kWh.
Your cost to run the bulb all month is 100 x 730 ÷ 1000 x 15¢ = $10.95. A heater using 300 watts would use under $35 per month.
Water4gas has been a long time supporter of its membership efforts to advance and forward HHO technology. This HHO Heater Project is the result of much dedication and hard work from fellow enthusiasts Tim and Scotty.
Below is a little information about what they set out to do and, as we expand into yet another area of application for HHO use, we are promoting their efforts with a water4gas DVD Special Edition.
We have just taken the technology to the next level. When no one else did... At our expense and our time. This is a fully automatic System that does work.
We are probably viewed as just another backyard builder by those that don't know us. But those who have seen our system running, or have been following us, know differently. We have released these videos to prove for one we are not greedy and getting others to see how we built ours and give them a chance to improve the technology.
We want more than anything to just open the eye's of those to whom may never have known about this type of technology using HHO.
Your SUPPORT of this project is directly helping us to present our HHO water heater prototype, and our larger scale home designs.
THANK YOU AND WATER4GAS FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUPPORT!!!!
What Can I Build From These Plans
We believe we have thoroughly covered all the steps for you to correctly duplicate the project and/or improve upon it. We also include a complete parts list with your purchase.
What Still Needs to Be Done?
Test, Test, Test, Test
As far as the system starting and stopping we have had no issues what so ever. It seems very safe to us. We have shared the watts being used and the BTUs of heat coming out for you to see. All testing should be done in a ventilated area.
What is the BTU Rating?
We have not had our system checked by any labs. But we feel our system is putting out between 5,000 and 6,000 BTU. We do not want to say how many square feet it will heat, but it does keep a 1,000 sf. basement at temp for over 12 hours.
Can I Buy a Fully Assembled Unit?
We found it too much work to continue our research and try to manufacture these. However, it is our hope that members of water4gas will express an interest and help coordinate an effort to make these available to people.
Step 1 - This Video Shows you the smoker unit we purchased to house all of the components of the HHO heater. Step 2 - Explaining the second bubbler This was for looks only and you can use what ever you wish for your second bubbler. Step 3 - Themaltake fan. Step 4 - Installing the Shurflo diaphram pump into the cabinet. Step 5 - Installing HHO cell. Step 6 - Installing the 120-24v transformer into the cabinet. Step 7 - Installing the 24v coil DP/DT relay, secondary relay installation. Step 8 - Installing 24v coil DP/DT relay, primary realy installation. Step 9 - Instalation of the ICM Delay on make timer. Step 10 - Installing the Ground Bar. Step 11 - Installing the 12v terminal block. Step 12 - Installing the 24v up to temp relay. Step 13 - Installing the 12v DC. Power Supply. Step 14 - Installing the main power plug. Step 15 - Installing the Thermaltake glycol pump into the cabinet. Step 16 - Installing a main 4 square electrical switch box with a 12v amp guage installed. Step 17 - Wire installation from the main socket to switch box and from 12v power supply to main switch box. Step 18 - Installing the 120v wires for the 120-24v transformer, from transformer to main switch box. Step 19 - Installing the 120v hot and neutral wire from the main switch box to the dimmer to feed the Shurflow pump. Step 20 - Installing the dimmer switch for the pump. Neutral wires. Step 21 - Explanation of the dimmer switch. Step 22 - Ground wire instalanation from dimmer and pump to terminal block. Step 23 - Main switch box, explanation of neutral wires. Step 24 - Crimp ends on black and red wires. More wiring information. Step 25 - Main switch box, terminating black, 120v wires from pump dimmer switch and 12v power supply red wire from primary relay. Step 26 - Main switch box, installing standard light switch. Step 27 - 12v power supply wiring. Step 28 - Connecting neg. from power supply to neg. on cell. Step 29 - Explanation of moving from wiring to now installing some plumbing. Step 30 - Explanation of the first bubbler. Step 31 - Installation of hose to tank, mounting of tank. Step 32 - Installation of hose from top barb fitting on second bubbler. Step 33 - Installation and explanation of the glycol hoses. Step 34 - Tubing coil installation, tube coil installed in 4" pipe and mounted in top of cabinet. Step 35 - Installation of hoses to tube coil, front hose on tube coil to outlet side of pump, back hose on tube coil to bottom of cell. Step 36 - Explanation of cap on second bubbler, flashback arrestor and solenoid valve hose from cap to flashback to solenoid. Step 37 - Installation of cap on second bubbler, flashback arrestor and solenoid valve. Step 38 - Explanation of 1/4" copper from solenoid valve to torch. Step 39 - Explanation of LED's. Step 40 - 12v DC wires from power supply. Step 41 - 12v DC wires from power supply, yellow wire 12v pos. Step 42 - Explanation of ground wires on LED's. Step 43 - Wiring up to temp LED. Step 44 - Wiring strip LED's on the sides of the second bubbler Step 45 - Wiring low water level LED. Step 46 - Wiring glycol pump. Step 47 - Explanation of the heat exchanger. Step 48 - Mounting thermal disc snap switch on other side of the heat exchanger. Step 49 - Adjusting snap switch on back side of the heat exchanger. Step 50 - Explanation of glycol block separate of heat exchanger and 1/8" x 3/8" barb fitting, install heat exchanger. Step 51 - Torch assy, .030 mig tip flattened to make the hole smaller, torch designed to fit our system. Step 52 - Installation of torch assembly. Step 53 - Clamp installation on torch assembly. Step 54 - Explanation of brackets for heat exchanger. Step 55 - Install to heat exchanger, install heat exchanger with bracket in system centering torch tip with center of heat exchanger. Step 56 - Installation of u bolt to torch assembly. Step 57 - Installation of sparker. Step 58 - Installation of glycol lines to water block. Step 59 - Installation of spark box. Step 60 - Wire from sparker connected to top terminal on spark box Step 61 - Wiring other side of front snap switch. Step 62 - Wiring spark box, orange wire with spade terminal on each end. Step 63 - Wiring spark box, blue wire to connect to left side of spark box. Step 64 - Wiring spark box - Cont. Step 65 - Explanation of t-stat, long probe to sense temp, installing bracket in front of sparker. Step 66 - Wiring t-stat. Step 67 - Wiring t-stat. - Cont. Step 68 - Wiring t-stat. - Cont. Step 69 - Wiring t-stat. - Cont. Step 70 - Wiring t-stat. - Cont. Step 71 - Wiring transformer. Step 72 - Wiring time delay. Step 73 - Wiring secondary relay. Step 74 - Wiring secondary and up to temp relay. Step 75 - Wiring secondary. relay, white wire from top right on secondary relay to snap switch on back side of the heat exchanger. Step 76 - Wiring snap switch, 2nd terminal on back snap switch to bottom right terminal of primary relay. Step 77 - Wiring solenoid valve. Step 78 - Wiring to secondary and primary relay Step 79 - Drain assy. Step 80 - Explanation of drain. Step 81 - Explanation of filling the second bubbler. Step 82 - Installing cap on second bubbler. and explaining the water level Step 83 - Mixing electrolyte. Step 84 - Adding electrolyte to the first bubbler. Step 85 - Tightening cap. make sure tight... Step 86 - Filling glycol pump with distilled water. Step 87 - Purging the air from the system. Step 88 - Final check on all electrical components... also check all plumbing. Step 89 - Purging the air from all of the plumbing. Step 90 - Cycle system 2-3 times to purge all air from water lines. Step 91 - Check all fittings,connections and check for any water leaks and fix. Step 92 - Starting system, leak test lines with soapy water, turn t-stat on, bleed air from gas lines. Step 93 - Adding more electrolyte to raise amp rate, starting system. Step 94 - One hour run time, explanation of system running.